Home » USA Tour Pt 3 |
Into New Mexico and from Lordsberg north for a visit to the Gila Indian Cliff Dwellings.
The road from Silver City to the dwellings is the most tortuous we have ever been on , it took us 2 hours to cover 44 miles. Unlike Mesa Verde, where you have to stay outside, at Gila it is possible to actually walk inside the houses and storerooms high up in a cliff .
Across the Mimbres Mountains and a lengthy search, in the dark, for a campsite.
Finally we found a very bare campsite behind a petrol station in the town of Caballo, no vegetation, no pitches marked out but good launderette and shower facilities.
Our next destination was to be White Sands National Monument and to get there we had to travel some way south before turning north east as there is no direct way over the San Andres Mountains.
Nearing the Monument we had to stop for ¢ an hour at a road block whilst rockets were fired across the road from the nearby White Sands Missile Range. Six missiles were fired - quite noisy and exciting.
White Sands NM is an area of brilliant white sand dunes stretching for miles and it is possible to drive for about 17 miles through them.
There are no restrictions on exploring on foot but a compass is absolutely essential for long hikes as the area is totally featureless, we settled for an evening walk with a Ranger.
It was some way from White Sands and to the north of the town of Alamogorda to the nearest campsite which was in The Oliver Lee SP at the foot of the Sacramento Mountains. Lovely views to the San Andres Mountains over the flat shimmering white valley.
From Alamogordo we drove north to Three Rivers National Recreational Site where there are more than 2,000 Indian rock paintings and a very pleasant trail winding through low hills from which to view them all. Back to Alamogorda and a very scenic drive over the Sacramento Mountains.
Brantley Lake SP sounded pleasant so we self registered for the night. As we arrived in the dark and then found ourselves in thick fog in the morning we never did see the lake.
Our last stop in New Mexico was at Carlsbad Caverns, a series of huge deep caves full of weirdly shaped colourful formations.
We opted to walk down into the caverns through the natural entrance rather than take the elevator down, but after walking the three mile rocky trail I was pleased to learn that the 'walk in' was one way only and the only way up was by that elevator.
Texas and a four day stay at a beautiful but very small State Park called Balmorhea.. The Park consists of the following. A 32 pitch campsite each pitch having its own bar-b-cue and picnic tables with attractive Spanish looking stone canopies over.
A man-made small wetland area with viewing platform from which to watch the very many visiting birds and also a viewing window below water level to watch the fishes.
Finally and best of all a huge U shaped hot spring fed swimming pool where we swam in the company of ducks and hundreds of little black fishes.
Several canalled streams ran from the swimming pool through the park making the area very green and pleasant.
Turning south we made for Fort Davis which is about 60 miles from the Mexican Border and were stopped twice on the road to there by police patrols and our passports asked for. (Having a dark tan is not always an advantage!)
Fort Davis is a small town with a 19th century fort of which only a few low walls remain.
The town attracts a lot of visitors and mostly consists of hotels and B & B's. The bank is the most attractive building, looking like a jail from an old western film with its wooden plank construction and barred windows.
The State Park campsite, about a mile above the town, is in a small tree lined Y shaped valley and like all other State Parks we stayed at on this trip almost deserted.
With such lovely warm weather we were surprised that they ever had an off season. In early evening we noticed a Javelina - a small hairy pig like animal we had without success spent a long time searching for at the Sonora Desert museum.
Quietly reaching for the camera we were delighted to get a good picture. Next thing we knew we were surrounded by about thirty of them and not being too sure of their temperament we hastily retired inside the van.
Next morning as we were having breakfast outside we were surrounded by a herd of deer and the bolder ones kept nudging us trying to get at our food.
From Fort Davis to Fort Stockton automatic pilot would have been useful the road being straight and flat for about 300 miles!
There are only two things I remember seeing in Fort Stockton - a convict gang mending the road and an imposing statue of a roadrunner (large flightless bird) labelled Paisano Pete.
At a town called Junction we followed signs for Llano State Park., a pleasant stopping place, very cool and green after the long hot dusty drive.
The Park has lots of trees, a wide fast flowing river and many well marked walking trails.
Choosing the hill trail we were rewarded with wide sweeping views of the surrounding countryside and our first sight of wild black turkeys.
The sign as you leave the park says 'y'all come back' and we will!
North to Marble Falls and a very expensive nights stay at Travis State park - $10 entrance fee and $18 to camp! The campsite is on the edge of the man made lake above the Buchanan dam and we spent a day walking around the lake observing the many birds there and the numerous green turtles sunning themselves on rocks in the water.
For a week we stayed with new friends (motor-caravanners met at Halifax in September) at their home in Marble Falls.
It now being February they had almost given up on us. Several outings from Marble Falls included a visit to Enchanted Rock , a bare 400ft pink granite hill so smooth we had to take zig-zag routes to the top and Georgetown to visit a candle factory where a cactus shaped candle was made for us.
Intrigued by the name Stonehenge on our Texas map we drove some miles south to find a 2/3rd replica of the monument in the middle of a large isolated field. Unlike the original there are no fallen stones and on closer examination they were made of fibre glass.
Nearby in the same field were two Easter Island type statues - no explanation for any of it. Also at Marble Falls we were introduced to our first Pit Bar-B-Q restaurant. Outside the restaurant were several large lidded Bar-b-cues from which we chose our meat - chicken, steak, goat, pork and sausage which was then weighed and priced.
Inside the restaurant were long trestle tables in the centre of which were kitchen rolls and packets of sliced bread - no cutlery! At a side table we helped ourselves to beans, coleslaw and potato salad (spoons provided for these) Wonderful tastes and a fun place to eat.
With a schedule to keep to but with great sadness we left Marble Falls where the warmth of our welcome was overwhelming and close friendships made. See you again Leta-Mae and Sidney..
San Antonio and a visit to The Alamo, a well preserved mission building dedicated to the memory of the men who died at the famous battle.
The Union Jack is displayed amongst the many flags as 12 Englishmen were among the fallen.
Near the mission is a very attractive river walk which winds its way behind the tall buildings of the town centre. On each side of the river on wide pavements are street cafes, restaurants and little shops.
South to Choke canyon where a notice at the entrance says "Alligators exist in this park" We self registered and then found we were the only campers - had the alligators been busy?. It was a lovely peaceful site beside a lake (no sign of a canyon) but there were so many flies it was uncomfortable to be outside.
On south to Corpus Christi on the Gulf of Mexico and for what we had planned was a couple of quiet days to catch up on diary and correspondence.
The campsite we chose turned out to have a very active social life and we were soon caught up in its whirl and our planned two days extended to 10 and we could have stayed longer.
We went out to breakfast at local cafes, stayed in camp for a communal breakfast of coffee and doughnuts, and joined in with pot luck dinners and a bean feast.
Special outings included a drive out to the nearby Padre Island where the beach is 110 miles long and a 16 mile cycle ride, in company with 35 fellow campers around the Aransas Wild Life Refuge where we saw alligators and the rare Whooping Cranes.
The wonderful friends we made and the activities they shared with us made for a memorable stay and once again it was difficult to move on.
Houston next and a very interesting day at the NASA Space Centre going inside capsules and shuttles (used ones), visiting space control and watching films taken of the inside of the orbiting MIR Space Station.
South from Houston and over a lovely high arched bridge to the coast and Galveston State Park.
The weather changed and for two days we stayed inside the van because of heavy rain and strong winds, but at least we caught up with diary and correspondence.
Louisiana and a two day wander along the coast to New Orleans for a stay at the KOA campsite there.
What we had not realised was that it was Mardi Gras and the campsite would only take 7 day bookings at a greatly inflated price - ú25 a night - and no discount for members.
Having arranged for our mail to be forwarded to us there we had no choice but to stay. As is usual with KOA the campsite was some way from the town but is on a fairly good bus route. From the bus terminal there is a choice of trolley or town bus to the centre.
Mardi Gras is colourful and noisy with all day parades of marching bands, fantastically decorated two and three tier floats, costumed horsemen, dancing girls and everyone in a party mood.
Occupants of the parade floats and people on the balconies in the French Quarter throw beads to the crowds and everyone walks around festooned in strings of them. Sometimes special beads are proffered and that's when it all gets a little risquÚ! (does anyone know of a use for 340 strings of beads - ordinary ones I hasten to add) Taking a break form the festivities we took a morning swamp tour and saw Alligators, Armadillos and Owls in lovely peaceful surroundings.
Not being able to resist the sign to 'The Longest Bridge in the World' we left New Orleans via the Pontchartrain Bridge which is 24 miles long and for about eight miles in the middle no sight of land.
Mississippi and keeping as close to the coast as possible, drove through endless swampland over bridge after bridge. Coming in to Biloxi we noticed several motor caravans parked by the sea wall behind a large Casino We joined them. Overnight parking was free and we enjoyed a four course meal in the Casino for about ú5 each.
Alabama and a stop at Mobile. The day being overcast we opted to visit the Memorial Park to see the permanently berthed battleship SS Alabama.
Apparently when the ship became redundant the school children of Alabama raised the money for it to 'come home' We were enjoying our lone self guided tour of the ship until we were about five decks down and the lights went out.
What we did not know was that there had been a cyclone warning and the storm had just hit us. After several endless moments the emergency lights came on and we were able to find our way out by their dim glow.
Struggling to get back to the van in the high winds and driving rain we were soaked to the skin.
Not being too happy parked on an exposed headland we waited for a lull in the storm, and then headed back to the Interstate, luckily the lull lasted long enough for us to drive safely over the five mile bridge on to firm land.
The storm then hit us again and for the next forty miles we drove at a snails pace in convoy with other vehicles, due to the force of the wind and the blinding heavy rain. Lightening was flashing down on all sides of us but we could not hear any thunder because of the noise of the rain on the roof.
At the Florida border we pulled into a rest area to wait out the storm but then decided to stay there for the night. Next morning we awoke to brilliant sunshine and a clear blue sky - unbelievable after such a terrible storm.
On to Pensacola and a drive over a three mile bridge to Gulf Breeze Peninsula and then a mile long bridge to Santa Rosa Island.
The campsite at Fort Pickens NP on the island has the Gulf of Mexico on one side and Pensacola Bay on the other, an idyllic spot.
In all we stayed three days and explored the beaches, walked a nature trail and cycled the lovely 2 mile long wooded path to the actual Fort Pickens.
The latter is a massive structure with huge gun emplacements all around. Built in the last century the army had only used it for gun practice and by the Second World War had been abandoned Its only claim to fame is that Geronimo, the Indian Chief, was briefly imprisoned there.
From Pensacola we took the coast road along the Gulf of Mexico and drove through a pretty little new town called Seaside where all the houses were turreted and balconied, all painted in pastel shades of pink, blue and green and with no two of the same colour together - very fantasy like.
The winds blowing off the Gulf made driving uncomfortable so we turned inland to Tallahassee for a visit to Wal-Mart to get our fiftieth film developed.
Georgia and a visit to the Okefenokee Swamp and a stay at Stephen C. Foster State Park campsite which is within a Natural Wildlife Refuge.
The isolated campsite is pleasantly situated amongst overgrown Cypress and Live Oak trees.
Not many campers there but lots of Racoons, some of which climbed on to our roof via the windscreen wipers and then peered down at us through the windscreen! Because of recent heavy rain all the nature trails were flooded so we hired a boat and spent half a day exploring the swamp.
The Ranger assured us it was impossible to get lost in the swamp as all 'wrong ways' were dead ends - this fact we verified several times.
Actually it was great fun weaving around the moss draped Cypress trees and low bushes sometimes in clear channels and sometimes through long swathes of water lilies. We passed close by basking alligators - sometimes too close for my liking - and were able to take good pictures of them.
The 17 mile drive out of the park on a deserted road was a delight as we passed Racoons scrabbling in the roadside ditches, baby alligators basking at the roadside, a skunk and distant views of grey foxes and vultures. More films to be developed.
Back into Florida and journeys end at Jacksonville. Not being able to arrange the shipping home of our van beforehand we had allowed for a four day stay.
The shipping agent we rang came to us at our campsite and within ¢ an hour had arranged to come back on the day we were leaving, lead us to the docks to deliver the van then drive us to the airport.
With days to spare we drove the forty miles south to visit Americas oldest city St Augustine.
It is a quaint town with its little narrow shopping street where amongst the modern goods shops are ones selling old fashioned goods like candy and lace. There is also an old original wooden schoolhouse on the street.
A pleasant waterside walk leads to a large stone fort built by the Spanish in 1672 from which are lovely views across the bay to the open sea.
Jacksonville on the banks of the St John river is Americas largest city in land area and although we drove all around did not find much of interest.
There is a short river front walk on which is a small complex of shops and cafes called Jacksonville Landing, which when we were there was deserted.
Eight miles away a new large Shopping Mall we visited was very crowded.
March 10th and journeys end.
1 Would we do it again? Yes we would. Would we advise anyone else to do it? Most certainly yes!
2 Having seen the story of our trip to the USA in 1997/98 written by my wife Wenda I thought I would add my views.
3 The Americans are really RV orientated - there are thousands of them on the road. Motor caravanners from the north all go to the south to the hot dry States for the winter (snowbirds).
4 We preferred to stay whenever possible at National and State Parks, National Monuments and State Beaches.
5 We purchased the Golden Access Pass for $50 which gave us free access to all 'National Parks and Monuments. The normal entrance fee for each of these places can be as much as $20.
6 We had been advised to join KOA (Kampgrounds of America) but found that although excellent sites, they are expensive, not always in the best place and there are as good cheaper alternative sites more ideally suited for sightseeing.
7 All campsite pitches have electricity, 110volt - 30/50amps. Having solar panels and extra battery we did not need to hook up at all during the six months.
Water, throughout the States have standard taps with a screw thread and one fitting for all.
8 Sewage dump inlets at individual campsite pitches are designed for the marine type tanks that use a 3" flexible pipe. Often there are TV points and telephone hook-ups and always picnic tables, chairs and barbecue pits.
9 The only gas available is propane and if using European bottles an adapter ( not available in the U.S.A.)is needed which you will have to obtain in the UK. American bottles can be filled at most garages and also at some of the larger campsites, about $1·70 a gallon.
10 In our last trip in 2002 we found they had recently changed the connecters for the bottles
11 Most roads are super and well sign posted.
12 Planning routes using the road numbers is easy - even numbers run east/west, odd numbered ones north/south
13 All towns are built on a grid system so our compass was useful. I like the fact that it is legal to turn right at a red light but not the rule of being able to overtake on the inside.
14 In towns we tended to drive in the centre lane as the right hand lane often became turn right only.
15 The 10 mph rule outside schools is strictly adhered to and all traffic stops when the school bus stops to load or unload children..
16 Diesel, not sold at all garages, is very cheap at 65p to 75p a US gallon.
17 Road Insurance was arranged with an American company before we left England and we did not need either an American address or an American driving licence.
18 Health and travel insurance was arranged with an English company.
19 We used our Visa card throughout the States and obtained cash at ATM cash machines ($300 limit)
20 We used the Rand McNally road atlas, equivalent to our OS maps, bought at Wal-Mart and also used that store for cheaper film processing and telephone cards, they also welcome overnight stays for RVs.
21 We had investigated the possibility of hiring or buying a motor caravan in the States and met English couples over there who had done just that but having our own new motor caravan it was cheaper to ship it out there.
For us it was a wonderful holiday. Because our van is Italian built with English number plates it created a tremendous amount of interest - we opened for viewing on many occasions and from this met many Americans who have now become good friends.
They helped to make our holiday what it was. As they said to us in Texas 'Y'All come back'
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USA Tour Pt 3
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